Here's a question for you--which came first, bread baking or clay pot firing in the oven? This came up when we met recently with two artists and a baker in Santa Fe to discuss a food happening for the fall to raise awareness about The FOOD Museum's push to recognize food heritage sites. among other things. The baker, Willem Malten, once a Zen monk in San Francisco, runs Cloud Cliff Bakery. The artists, Ana MacArthur and Chrissie Orr, collaborated last year on an all-bread mandala, breads and grains courtesy of Willem. The mandala was constructed outdoors at the State Capitol Building and was part of a wild exhibition on food and art titled : The FOOD Show-- Politics, Pleasure and Pain.
(The idea behind the mandala last winter was for it to slowly deteriorate, nibbled on by birds, carried off by squirrels, munched from directly by street people, swept clean by wind and snow, and so on.)
Anyway! Ana brought up the question about the oven's first purpose because she and Willem had been discussing the many similarities between dough and clay. A few years back, inspired by pictures of "bread heads" in a 1930's book about the Poilane Bakery in Paris, Willem decided to make his own heads out of bread for the Mexican Day of the Dead celebration in November of 2002. He made gypsum casts of faces and subsequently filled the resulting molds with dough---he baked 70-80 heads, hung them up in his bakery/cafe, and on the night of November 2 gave a lecture there on bread as a medium for sculpture, mentioning the Poilane Bakery's influence on him.
The next morning when Willem walked into his bakery earlier than normal a copy of the New York Times was sitting right on the counter. This was unusual because the paper was always late, and it was never placed in that spot. On the front page was a headline about the accidental death November 2 in France of Lionel Poilane, the famous bakery's owner.
( Pause for a nod to synchronicity.)
Now---- many of you probably know that the Egyptians, and others in the ancient Mediterranean and Middle East first made bread on the hearth, a flat bread. But they also developed a way of making multiple raised breads in pots resembling flower pots that were stacked over the coals of an open hearth. ( Take a look here.)So bread-baking went from the hearth, to the hearth with something to contain the dough as it baked, to an actual oven.
Research in one of our favorite sources, James Trager's The Food Chronology, suggests that fired pottery has been around since at least 6000 BC but that bread baking per se dates from about 2500 BC. BUT--the earliest clay containers apparently were fired in bonfires rather than in actual ovens or, as those pot people call them, kilns. ( For a look at a Roman-style bread oven, look here.)
Surely someone practical and task-oriented somewhere in those ancient days threw some dough along with a pot needing to be fired into an oven and snatched out the "bread" when it was just ready to eat--yeasty, hot and perfect?
(Willem's bread head photo courtesy Anita Zednik.)
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